The Joys of Vintage Cookbooks

Recently, while browsing the ‘for sale’ shelf of my local library, I happened upon an old cookbook by the grand dame of home baking, Mary Berry. The book was first published back in 1983 and includes a host of recipes from her various television series.

I was delighted by this discovery for three reasons.  Firstly, the aptly titled Mary Berry’s Complete Television Cookbook, despite being in excellent condition, was marked at the knock-down price of 50p  – and like most people in these straitened times, I do loves me a bargain.  (Incidentally, the same book is listed on Amazon as ‘collectible’ and priced from £9.99 to £35.00, depending on the seller.)

Secondly, while many recipes in vintage cookbooks stand the test of time, some of the writing, unfortunately, does not – and this can sometimes make for hilarious reading. This particular offering from Ms Berry contained many nuggets of wisdom which all but cracked me up. 

For example, in the ‘planning your kitchen’ section, Ms Berry advises the reader to use gloss paint on the walls because “it is easily washed, but make sure you have no condensation – it looks particularly unattractive on gloss paint.”  And on the subject of white goods, she states that “the dishwasher is still considered a luxury but they are worth the money if you have a large family and little time or inclination to be up to your elbows in suds all day”, while microwave ovens are “marvellously useful”.

The Unwitting Feminist

Hmmm – I wonder if Mary realised at the time that she was writing such a ground-breaking feminist manifesto?  Somehow, I think not …

But, giggles aside, the third and most important reason I take such delight in old-school cookbooks is the fact that they are a veritable treasure throve of genuinely classic recipes. 

In this, the era of the celebrity chef, hardly a month goes by which doesn’t see the publication of yet another tome by Oliver, Ramsey et al – and in order to differentiate themselves in this overcrowded market, I have noticed that these chefs/cookery writers are increasingly focusing on fancy-schmancy recipes that claim to be a new take on the classics.  And while all this is well and good – food writing does indeed need to evolve in order  to survive – sometimes one craves the simplicity of a classic recipe, without all the attendant bells and whistles.

And so, on that note, I give you ….

Mary Berry’s Chocolate Éclairs

Prep Time: 20 mins

Cook Time: 30 mins approx + 10 mins cooling

Decorating Time: 10 mins

Ingredients:

CHOUX PASTRY
50g butter

150ml water

60g plain flour

2 eggs, beaten

FILLING

300ml whipping cream

ICING

40g butter

25g cocoa powder

100g icing sugar, sieved

3-4 tablespoons milk

You will also need a piping bag fitted with ½ nozzle, and two greased baking trays.

1. Preheat oven to 200C / 400F / Gas 6.

2. Put the butter and water in a saucepan and bring to the boil slowly.  Keep stirring until butter has melt completely.

3. Remove from heat and add the flour all at once.  Beat to form a ball.

4. Gradually beat in the eggs, a little at a time, to make a smooth paste.

5. Put the mixture in the piping bag and pipe the mixture into 8cm lengths.

6. Bake for 10 minutes, before reducing the heat to 170C-180C / 350F / Gas 4, and bake for a further 15 to 20 minutes, until the éclairs have risen, crisp and golden-brown.

7. Remove from over, place on a wire tray.

8. Slit each éclair down one side to allow steam to escape.

9. Allow to cool.

10. Meanwhile, whip the cream until it is thick and has formed into soft peaks.

11. Fill the éclairs' cavity with the whipped cream.

11. Make the icing by melting the butter in a small saucepan before adding the cocoa and cook for a minute, stirring constantly.

12. Remove from the heat and stir in the icing sugar and milk and beat until starting to thicken.

13. Coat the icing over the éclairs and allow to set.

Here's some I made earlier ...