Bill Granger's Chocolate Pancakes

Although a relative newcomer to the British food scene (he has just opened his first restaurant in Notting Hill), the Australian restauranteur and food writer, Bill Granger, is regarded as a modern-day food-deity in his native land.  His three café-style restaurants in Sydney are immensely popular, especially at weekends, when Granger devotees think nothing of rising at dawn just to skip the queues for his notoriously delicious scrambled egg breakfasts.

And therein lies the secret of his success.  While it is an incontrovertible fact that the man can cook just about anything (particularly Asian cuisine), this savvy, self-taught chef has recognised that his style of cooking appeals particularly to the breakfast/brunch market.  With this in mind, he has consciously nurtured a relaxed, laid back atmosphere in his restaurants.  Adopting a no-reservation policy at weekends, he has set his establishments apart from a lot of popular Sydney eateries, which can often be accused of taking themselves far too seriously.

But perhaps the most ingenious of all is the fact that two out of his three restaurants cater only for the breakfast and lunch, closing their doors in the afternoon.  By resolutely turning his back on night-time diners, Granger has established himself as the undisputable king of Sydney breakfasts.

And so, with Shrove Tuesday once again upon us, it is perhaps unsurprising that I turned to good ole Bill for some pancake inspiration.  In fact, with many of you about to embark on some form of Lenten abstinence, these sinfully decadent chocolate pancakes are just the ticket to send you on your way.

Bill Granger's Chocolate Pancakes

Prep time: 20 mins
Cook time: 15 mins plus 1 hr cooling time
Makes 10

Ingredients:

150g plain flour
2 tablespoons good quality cocoa powder
2 eggs, lightly beaten
50g unsalted butter, melted and cooled (plus extra for cooking)
Pinch of salt
Jar of Nutella

You will also need a 20com non-stick frying pan.

This recipe could not be simpler:

1. Blitz all the ingredients in a blender (or, if you prefer to go old-skool, simply combine all the wet ingredients with the dry in a spacious bowl, and beat until you get a smooth batter).
2. Transfer the batter to a jug and refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Brush the frying pan with melted butter and place on a medium heat.
4. When pan is hot, add a ladleful of batter to the pan, and tip the pan to ensure the batter spreads evenly. (If you find the batter is too thick, add a little milk).
5. Cook for 1 minute and then flip the pancake.  Cook for just a few seconds on the other side.
6. Transfer to a warmed plate and repeat the process (adding more butter to the pan each time) until all batter is gone.
7. Spread with Nutella (and maybe just a light sprinking of vanilla sugar), fold and serve.

Enjoy!

The Joys of Vintage Cookbooks

Recently, while browsing the ‘for sale’ shelf of my local library, I happened upon an old cookbook by the grand dame of home baking, Mary Berry. The book was first published back in 1983 and includes a host of recipes from her various television series.

I was delighted by this discovery for three reasons.  Firstly, the aptly titled Mary Berry’s Complete Television Cookbook, despite being in excellent condition, was marked at the knock-down price of 50p  – and like most people in these straitened times, I do loves me a bargain.  (Incidentally, the same book is listed on Amazon as ‘collectible’ and priced from £9.99 to £35.00, depending on the seller.)

Secondly, while many recipes in vintage cookbooks stand the test of time, some of the writing, unfortunately, does not – and this can sometimes make for hilarious reading. This particular offering from Ms Berry contained many nuggets of wisdom which all but cracked me up. 

For example, in the ‘planning your kitchen’ section, Ms Berry advises the reader to use gloss paint on the walls because “it is easily washed, but make sure you have no condensation – it looks particularly unattractive on gloss paint.”  And on the subject of white goods, she states that “the dishwasher is still considered a luxury but they are worth the money if you have a large family and little time or inclination to be up to your elbows in suds all day”, while microwave ovens are “marvellously useful”.

The Unwitting Feminist

Hmmm – I wonder if Mary realised at the time that she was writing such a ground-breaking feminist manifesto?  Somehow, I think not …

But, giggles aside, the third and most important reason I take such delight in old-school cookbooks is the fact that they are a veritable treasure throve of genuinely classic recipes. 

In this, the era of the celebrity chef, hardly a month goes by which doesn’t see the publication of yet another tome by Oliver, Ramsey et al – and in order to differentiate themselves in this overcrowded market, I have noticed that these chefs/cookery writers are increasingly focusing on fancy-schmancy recipes that claim to be a new take on the classics.  And while all this is well and good – food writing does indeed need to evolve in order  to survive – sometimes one craves the simplicity of a classic recipe, without all the attendant bells and whistles.

And so, on that note, I give you ….

Mary Berry’s Chocolate Éclairs

Prep Time: 20 mins

Cook Time: 30 mins approx + 10 mins cooling

Decorating Time: 10 mins

Ingredients:

CHOUX PASTRY
50g butter

150ml water

60g plain flour

2 eggs, beaten

FILLING

300ml whipping cream

ICING

40g butter

25g cocoa powder

100g icing sugar, sieved

3-4 tablespoons milk

You will also need a piping bag fitted with ½ nozzle, and two greased baking trays.

1. Preheat oven to 200C / 400F / Gas 6.

2. Put the butter and water in a saucepan and bring to the boil slowly.  Keep stirring until butter has melt completely.

3. Remove from heat and add the flour all at once.  Beat to form a ball.

4. Gradually beat in the eggs, a little at a time, to make a smooth paste.

5. Put the mixture in the piping bag and pipe the mixture into 8cm lengths.

6. Bake for 10 minutes, before reducing the heat to 170C-180C / 350F / Gas 4, and bake for a further 15 to 20 minutes, until the éclairs have risen, crisp and golden-brown.

7. Remove from over, place on a wire tray.

8. Slit each éclair down one side to allow steam to escape.

9. Allow to cool.

10. Meanwhile, whip the cream until it is thick and has formed into soft peaks.

11. Fill the éclairs' cavity with the whipped cream.

11. Make the icing by melting the butter in a small saucepan before adding the cocoa and cook for a minute, stirring constantly.

12. Remove from the heat and stir in the icing sugar and milk and beat until starting to thicken.

13. Coat the icing over the éclairs and allow to set.

Here's some I made earlier ...

The Breakfast of Champions

Well, it seems winter has finally deigned to arrive.  After weeks, if not months, of unseasonably warm weather - which has seen daffodils blooming in early January - the mercury has at last returned to its rightful (sub zero) position on the barometer.

Now if you're anything like me, a cup of tea and a quick slice of toast simply will not do on cold winter morning - I need something warm and wholesome in my stomach before I can even contemplate going into battle with the ice-scraper and windscreen demister.

And so, here is the recipe for my ultimate winter-morning breakfast, guaranteed to give you the 'glow' popularized in the 80s by that smug little so-and-so, the Ready Brek Kid. (Remember him?)

You can thank me later.

Creamy Porridge with Grated Apple, Honey and Cinnamon

Prep Time: Less than 5 mins
Cook Time: 5 mins
Serves: 2 (but you can increase the ingredients proportionally if you have more than two hungry mouths to feed)

Ingredients:

100g porridge/rolled oats
375ml milk
1 small apple (preferably a tart variety like Granny Smith, Braeburn or even Bramley)
Runny honey or agave nectar
Ground cinnamon

1. In a small saucepan, cook the oats and milk over a medium heat for about 5 minutes.
2. Stir frequently to ensure a creamy texture (and to prevent the porridge from sticking to the bottom of the pan!)
3. Take the pan off the heat when the porridge has reached the desired consistency (if you prefer it runny rather than thick, simply add a little more milk.
4. Just before serving, grate the apple (skin included) into the pan and mix through.
5. After serving, add a decent dollop of honey and a liberal sprinkling of ground cinnamon.
6. Enjoy!

Note: If there is a paucity of apples in your fruit bowl, fear not - bananas work well as a substitute.

The banana version. I know, thanks to my poor presentational skills, this looks like a dog's dinner, but really it's not. It's delicious. Honestly.

Sophie Dahl's Banana Bread

Normally, when it comes to trying new recipes, I tend to abide by the old adage “never trust a skinny cook”.

Indeed, this little nugget of wisdom is particularly apt when applied to that new breed of celebrity chef – the actress/model-turned-food guru. I mean, there is no way anyone is going to convince me that a Gwyneth Paltrow recipe, however nutritious it might be, is going to taste like anything other than recycled cardboard.

However, I am prepared to make an exception for Sophie Dahl (grand-daughter of Roald Dahl and former supermodel) for two reasons:

1) Prior to becoming a skinny-minny, Ms Dahl was, in her own words, “as round as a Reubens” (i.e. a bit of a fatty)

and

2) She has often described herself as ‘greedy’ – not a word which would be used by anyone who does not genuinely love their food.

Thus, when I happened upon her recipe for banana bread in an old foodie magazine, I threw caution to the wind and decided to give it a go (although, I have to admit that my resolve wavered slightly when confronted with a list of ingredients which included desiccated coconut and a pot of crème fraiche).

But for once, my recklessness was rewarded - the resulting loaf (pictured below) was the most mouthwateringly delicious banana bread I have ever tasted. The addition of the crème fraiche ensured a moistness I have never before experienced in a banana bread (which can often be a bit on the dry side), and the coconut gave it an usual depth of flavour.

And so, while I still hold the majority of actress/model-turned-celebrity-chefs in contempt (I will forever worship at the alter of Nigella), there will always be room on my bookshelf for a Sophie Dahl cookbook.

Banana Bread with Coconut and Crème Fraiche

Prep Time: 20 mins

Cook Time: 55 mins - 1 hour

Serves 10

Ingredients:

110ml sunflower oil

200g light muscovado sugar

2 eggs, lightly beaten

50g desiccated coconut (orignal recipe calls for 75g but I prefer to add a little less)

400g mashed banana (about 4 medium bananas

200ml crème fraiche

1 tsp vanilla extract

170g spelt flour

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

½ tsp salt

You will also need a 2kg loaf tin, lined and/or greased

1. Preheat oven to 180C / 350F / Gas 4

2. Beat together the oil and sugar.

3. Add the eggs, coconut, mashed bananas, crème fraiche and vanilla extract

4. Gently sift in the flour, bicarb of soda and salt, stirring until the dry ingredients are combined with the wet ingredients.

5. Pour mixture into prepared tin and bake for 55 mins - 1 hour, or until a cake tester comes out clean.

6. Serve warm with butter.



When is a Risotto not a Risotto?

This dish is, for all intents and purposes, a risotto.  Except it can’t be called a risotto because the technique is slightly different.  Instead of laboriously stirring ladleful after ladleful of stock into the rice, with this recipe you simply dump the rice into the hot stock all at once, and let it slowly absorb as it cooks.  Perfect for when you have neither the time nor the inclination to engage in any culinary heavy-lifting.

Arroz con Gambas y Chorizo

(or Rice with Prawns and Chorizo to you and me!)

Prep Time: 25 mins (or less if you buy pre-prepared prawns)

Cook Time: 35 mins
Serves 4

Ingredients:

Olive Oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

3 gloves of garlic, finely minced

1 red chilli, finely chopped

75g chorizo sausage, sliced thinly

Small bunch of dill, roughly chopped

Small bunch of lemon thyme, roughly chopped and/or a dash of lemon juice

500ml fish stock

Glug of white wine (optional)

440g tin of chopped tomatoes

250g risotto rice (like arborio or carnaroli)

400g prawns, peeled, shelled and lightly seasoned.

1.  In a large, heavy-bottomed pan, warm a gulg of olive oil over a medium heat.

2.  When the oil is hot, add onions and fry with a little salt until they begin to soften. (ALWAYS use salt when frying onions – it brings out their flavour beautifully)

3.  Add the minced garlic, chopped chilli and chorizo. Cook for another couple of minutes until the chorizo has released its lovely oily red colour and paprika flavour.

4.  Add the tinned tomatoes, herbs and the wine, followed by the fish stock.

5.  Season with salt and pepper.

6.  When the stock/tomato mixture is hot, add the rice and stir well.

7.  Reduce the heat, cover and simmer slowly, stirring occasionally, until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid.

8.  Finally, turn up the heat and add the prawns.

9.  Cook for just a few minutes, until prawns are pink and no longer translucent.

Serve immediately.

Easy Homemade Bread

Despite the proliferation of high-quality, reasonably-priced, artisan breads that are now readily available on most supermarket shelves, nothing quite beats the taste of one’s own homemade bread, straight from the oven, served with lashings of melting butter.

However, most people are quite understandably put off by time and effort it takes to prepare a yeast-based bread – considering the busy lives we all lead, all that palaver involved in waiting for the dough to ‘prove’ is simply too much bother.

However, a solution can be found in the old store-cupboard staple that is bicarbonate of soda. A perennial favourite in Irish kitchens, the humble bicarb provides a pleasing alternative to yeast, not least because it does not require any time to ‘rise’, which means the entire process of bread-making is vastly simplified.

Below is a recipe for a fibre-packed, nutty, wholemeal soda bread, with a white version to follow later.

Wholemeal Irish Soda Bread (Serves 4)

Prep Time: 10 mins
Cook Time: 50 mins

Ingredients:

180g wholemeal flour
50g plain flour
50g pinhead oatmeal*
25g wheatgerm
1 teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda
1 teaspoon white sugar
1¼ teaspoons salt
280 ml buttermilk
1 egg, preferably free-range

(* Feel free to mix the pinhead oatmeal with other pre-cooked grains such as rye or pearl barley. If you live in the UK, Waitrose stocks a great four-grain mix of spelt, pearl barley, rye and wholemeal grains in their new ‘love life’ range, which works really well in this recipe.)

You will also need a small (1lb) loaf tin, slicked with a little butter.

1. Preheat oven to 190C / 375F / Gas 5
2. Place all the dry ingredients into a large-ish bowl.
3. Lightly beat the egg into the buttermilk.
4. With a fork, combine the buttermilk and egg mixture with the dry ingredients.
5. Spread the mixture into the greased loaf tin.
6. Cook for 50 minutes, until bread is golden-brown and emits a hollow sound when tapped on the bottom.
7. Allow to cook on a wire tray, while you enjoy the delicious smell of fresh-baked bread that has filled your kitchen!

It really is as simple as that!

Like most homemade breads, this one should be eaten fresh on the same day – but in the unlikely event that there is any leftover, it makes amazing toast for up to 3 days!

London’s Burning! (The Baker Did It!)

On this day (September 2^nd) in 1666, the Great Fire of London sparked into life.

The fire, which would wipe out 80% of the city, was ignited in a bakehouse in Pudding Lane, a short work from London’s famous Tower Bridge. The proprietor of the bakery, who regularly supplied bread to the king, was Thomas Farriner – but the culprit was one of the bakehouse workers, who failed to dampen the oven properly.

When the bakery went up in flames, Farriner and his family fled across the maze of rooftops that surrounded the building. The only member of the household to remain behind was a maid, who was too paralyzed from fright and shock to run. Unfortunately for her, the flames soon engulfed the entire building, and the fire claimed its first victim.

The fire was to rage for 3 days, until it finally burnt out on September 5th. The famous diarist, Samuel Pepys, chronicled the progress of the flames in his journals, which have since become an invaluable historical record.

Unlike many of the London's inhabitants, Samuel did not attempt to move his belongings out of the city as the flames drew closer to his home. Instead, he came up with an ingenious way to protect his most treasured possessions, as this diary entry will attest:

"I did dig another [hole], and put our wine in it; and I my Parmazan cheese, as well as my wine …”

Truly, a man after my own heart!

(In the end, Pepys and his buried cheese and wine escaped unscathed.  Although the fire spread to his street, it died out before reaching his house.)